Years ago it was typical for the pollerias to give away a chicken chick with the purchase of two dozen eggs. The chickens could be dyed using a spray of colors. Painting them supposedly made them more attractive birds for consumers. Getting them was very simple but taking care of them ... not so much.
Even today, having a chicken chick as a pet is widespread. The children of that time are the parents of now and want their children to live the experience of having that beautiful chicken house at home.
Don't mess it up, chicken, and read the information well if you don't want to have a dislike!
Index of contents
First approach, chickens are pets
There is no doubt that chickens have been pets for many years, therefore a priori, there is no danger that they are dangerous beings to adopt as pets at home.
If you are interested in history, I recommend the following article written for Fanmascotas, by a great friend and excellent teacher of geography and history.
- The domestication of animals, their passage to pets.
A chick in the city
This approach you will understand better with a real example. I raised a chicken chick fifteen years ago and it was one of my best pets until he became an adult, I called him Lucas.
Lucas, he was very intelligent and had character, he soon learned lots of tricks! We had a great time together walking through the countryside when we could, and eating insects. To tell you the truth, I didn't eat them, only he did, but we did walk together, at a chicken's pace, everything is said.
It gave him warmth by placing him on my chest. It was quite cold - despite wearing a feathers - especially when it was a chick. When the real feathers started coming out, he needed less heat. Lucas loved to take him in his arms and grope his neck. On the contrary, he hated to stroke her legs and crest. He knew he didn't like it because he shook his head sharply in denial.
The chicks need heat and they love that you caress their neck.
Having a chicken chick like Lucas, made me think about different aspects of my life like feeding. I hesitated, for example, if I continue to eat chicken, in all its versions or fertilized chicken eggs.
The maturity of the chick in the city
Upon reaching maturity and becoming a rooster, after about a year, having it seemed complicated, why?
The roosters, as you know, sing - they are too scandalous - and the floors of Madrid are not good places for them. Nor do they control their sphincters well and make the soil very dirty. With them the latrines are of no use.
I had to take him to the chicken coop, my chicken coop, where his parents were from: a laying hen and the dominant rooster in the pen.
This story takes us to the next point of view about having a chicken chick or not, as a pet.
Second approach, chickens are poultry
Chickens are domestic animals but must live in semi-freedom or in pens. Both places are incompatible with a flat. So you should have alternatives when your adopted chick becomes an adult.
All alternatives go to take it to A trusty pen. That is, whose owner has experience with chickens and does not want to transform your rooster or chicken, into a good stew.
How do you take care of a chick?
Well done the above considerations, let's get to the point.
To keep a chick you will need:
The heat for every bird or mammal is essential. In the case of chicks it is more. Your heat source must come from above. I do not advise you to use thermal blankets because the mother chicken heats them from above.
What bulb to use?
Virtually everyone who raises their own chickens uses red or infrared light bulbs that are also used for reptiles. They are less harmful to the eyes of animals.
Do not use light bulbs that are not red or ceramic.
The power you need, varies depending on the height at which you are going to place it and how isolated the cage or container is where you are going to keep your chick. Then I leave one that is very good so you do not go crazy looking.
The best way to know if the chick is comfortable is to see if it is relaxed. When you eat and drink normally throughout the cage it is fine. On the contrary, if you pee too much or are always under the bulb, you need to place the focus lower or put more power. Finally, if the chicken is in the walls of the cage, or opens the beak, it is hot.
In general, I recommend a 100W bulb for a 100 l container, located 45 cm high from the chicken. Take the temperature of different points of the container. The ideal temperature must be around 37 ° C.
The ideal temperature of the chicks is 37 ºC
As they grow, they need less heat and you can turn off the bulb during the central hours of the day depending on the season of the year in which you are. If it's winter, you can never do it.
Always have a replacement bulb in case the one you use melts. Lack of heat can be lethal to your chicken.
Caring for a chick is essential for it to grow properly and children learn how to take care of this particular pet
To have chicks At home it is one of the best experiences for children, but the truth is that like any animal we must take into account that in the long run it will end up growing and above all, take care of it in conditions. Let's see next, Step by Step and so Easy, how to care for a chick.
He taking care of a chick can be a great experience for your children, teaching them how to take care of these animals, small and defenseless. To know how to take care of chicks is something simple, although we have to follow a series of specific and very basic steps, which we will explain below.
Orphan chicken treatment manual
CHICKEN: Poultry breeding.
Every year, during spring and summer, hundreds of thousands of bird chickens decide to embark on the adventure of life and jump out of the nest. However, they will still depend on their parents for some time until they learn to look for food, to recognize the dangers, etc. If you find a chicken like this you should not take it because it does not need your help. This is what usually happens with most chickens that people collect. Because of ignorance, they don't know that chicken is not usually an orphan and, although with the best intention in the world they pick it up because they feel sorry for them, they make a serious mistake to deprive the young man and learn to survive. They will never take care of him better than his parents.
What enclosure to use?
An old terrarium, an aquarium or a large hamster cage will serve you when the chick is small. But in fifteen days you will have to change containers because they grow fast.
Make sure that in the cabin you choose, it is easy to place the lamp that you have manufactured or purchased to place the heat bulb. Then you can have the chicken in a room or bathroom. You can also use some special enclosure, here I leave a solution.
You can use wood or paper shavings at the bottom of the cage. You can also browse the following link, it will be useful for you at this point.
Small orphaned animals campaign 2014
One more year, GREFA carries out the campaign for attention to small orphans where around 1500 offspring and chickens will be treated in our hospital. We need everyone's collaboration to successfully launch this campaign for another year. Click here to collaborate in the campaign "Small orphan animals 2014".
This is a general guide. If your chicken is a swift you can consult "Brief guidelines for hand-rearing of swifts". In addition to reading this guide, look for specific information about your chicken on the Internet.
Feed the chick
The easiest way is through starter feed or special feed for chicks. You can buy it in a farmer, in feed stores or, to a lesser extent, in specialty pet stores.
When the chick is very small, I advise you to offer it on demand. Leave it in a feeder that can be easily accessed. Deposit some feed on the floor to make it easier to chop it. As you grow up you should change the type of feed according to your age.
You can also give it as a complement, they are bread, vegetables (in small quantities), a mixture of parakeets and canaries or insects, as live food.
It always has to be at your disposal and fresh. Change it at least once a day and move it away from the heat source.
Change the water at least once a day.
Buy a bird drinker in your trusty birdhouse, it will be the best tool to provide you with water.
Why didn't you know that you should vaccinate your chicken chick? Yes, it is necessary. If you want your chick to reduce considerably the typical diseases of chickens you should vaccinate. I always give you this vaccine:
It is very simple to vaccinate them. Just give them a drop of the vaccine in the eye or nose.
I thank you very much for your comments with your doubts and experiences to improve the information.
Beware of protected species!
Therefore, when you find a buzzard chicken, kestrel or owl, among others you should go to the police in your area or to a recovery center for wild animals. However, if you have found a swallow or other insectivore, even if they are protected, you may be able to collaborate and participate in their rehabilitation. Indeed, every year, during spring and summer, GREFA is saturated with this type of animals and, as you will see later, there are few attention that a chicken requires. Can you imagine dealing with 30 or 40 chickens a day? In our hospital, experience has shown us that it is very effective to have a VOLUNTEER GROUP FOR THE ORPHAN CHICKEN'S BREED They take care of these animals in their homes. If you have patience, responsibility and love for animals. You can be one of them.
What bird is it?
Describing all bird species is not very relevant, but there are guides on the market for identifying birds and even eggs and chicks. However, it is very important to know something about the biology of our chick, for example: what does it feed on? Is it a nest or a nest?
The shape of the beak can guide us to know what you eat:
- A thin beak, like the robin's, serves to hunt mosquitoes.
- a sturdy and short beak, like the goldfinch, serves to break seeds.
- A dagger-shaped beak, such as the stork, heron or tern, serves to harpoon fish, frogs.
- a hook-shaped beak such as the hawk or eagle, serves to tear the prey.
Nestlings are totally dependent at birth, the most difficult to raise and release. About four weeks of life they are able to fly. The most typical examples are raptors and garden birds.
Nestlings are able to escape a few hours after hatching, however they need their parents to feed them or teach them how to get it. The most typical example are ducklings, pheasants and partridges.
The accommodation and the temperature
Once at home, although some birds have special requirements to be housed, in general you can follow these tips:
If the chicken is nesting (confined to the nest) and is in Phase 1 of development, place it in a small bowl with the bottom covered with some layers of paper towels. Install your new nest in a larger box. To keep the chicken warm, the best is an electric blanket at a moderate intensity placed under the box. They can also serve hot water bags (a good substitute are the canteens or plastic bottles with a cap) or hanging a 60w bulb (better if it is infrared). Some rehabilitators use the 60w bulb by day and the electric mat at night so that the animal has the feeling of the day-night cycle. In any case, NEVER use both at the same time!
A bird becomes aware of its surroundings long before leaving the egg. Several days before hatching you will perceive the shrieks and calls your parents emit when they reach the nest or leave it.
The proportion of chicks that hatch in the morning is higher than those in the afternoon, and this suggests that, even inside the egg, they already have some type of diurnal rhythm.
Hungry chicks can induce their parents to feed them by loudly asking for food every time their parents approach the nest. This encourages parents to increase their efforts. However, this food request behavior also verifies the risk that a predator hears such calls. The chick's need for food must be balanced against the risks of being eaten. Sometimes it is advantageous not to make too much noise.
Nidicultural species have the advantage of not wasting energy on running from one place to another, nor much energy to keep warm, therefore, they can devote to growth a proportion of the food they receive greater than in the case of nestlings. For this reason they grow faster.
The growth rate of poultry offspring - especially nestlings - is extremely high. The robin chick weighs about two grams when it leaves the egg, reaching eleven days full development, then weighing about twenty grams.
If the food supply is reduced for some time, many bird chicks will be in serious danger and will die. However, the common swift chick is fed with small flying insects that are only abundant on sunny days, therefore, the swift chicken is often found so that their parents cannot supply a large amount of food. It grows much slower than most small birds, but it can withstand periods of food shortage much better.
The smaller the body of a bird, the surface is relatively larger and therefore higher is the loss of heat. The smallest European birds, the simple kinglet and the kinglet listed, weigh only about 6 grams, the spittle, about 7 grams, the myth, 8 grams, and the Garrapinos and the chochín, less than 10 grams, all these species usually have serious difficulties to conserve heat during the cold winter nights, and do so at the expense of consuming a large amount of energy. For example, a sparrow that retires to rest can weigh about 26 grams, of which about two grams are fat that can be used overnight to stay. Normally at dawn lost about one gram (4% of its weight).
In Europe, the vast majority of birds are monogamous in which the two individuals of each couple defend a territory and raise their chicks. In other parts of the world there are different species that breed cooperatively, this means that in one territory more than one couple live together and that more than two birds take the food to the chicks.
There are several ways in which birds feed their chicks: some chickens take food directly from the throat (the pelicans), others feed their chickens with small pieces of a larger prey (the hawks), others feed the chickens regurgitating a liquid crossing the beak inside the chicken (the turtledoves), in other species the adults regurgitate the food on the ground (the seagulls), in other cases the adult places the food inside the small's beak.
NEVER FEED THE BIRDS WITH BREAD AND MILK!
Paste for insectivorous birds (this is not the most adequate food but it may be the most feasible option to get in stores until you get another more adequate food)
Tenebrios or mealworms
An inadequate feeding problem of feeding them with other foods can cause serious digestive disorders, growth, loss and poor quality of the plumage, until the death of the animal, In this link you will see all the necessary food for these birds, if for different reasons you do not get These products call a wildlife recovery center and approach the animal they are qualified to attend to these birds.
- Cereal porridge for babies with protein.
- Wheat Germ
- Crushed Apple
- Hard-boiled egg.
- Sunflower seeds mol> Prepare only the meal of the day as it spoils easily, store unused food in the fridge. You can also freeze it in ice buckets so you can thaw it in portions. If you don't know for sure if the chicken is granivorous or insectivorous, feed it with the formula for insectivores until you can identify it.
How to administer food and how often?
Phase 1: If you order the food and open the beak (which can be stimulated by light tapping on the box or whistles), it will be enough to gently put it to the bottom of the beak, with tweezers, small portions of the pasta you have prepared. If it is hard for you to swallow you can moisten it with water.
If on the contrary you do not want to eat, you will have to force it by opening the beak carefully.
The frequency of the baits in this phase will be at thirty minute intervals throughout the day during daylight hours. For each fattening, we will feed until it is full (usually three or four shots). As the chickens grow, it progressively lengthens the intervals between each bait up to one hour. With care and delicacy, remove food debris stuck around the beak with your fingers or a moistened ear stick.
Phase 2: During this phase and as a rule, you have to learn to peck food. An easy way to show it to you is to leave the food on the floor of the box, so that the chicken can see where the tongs take the food. It is the moment in which imprinting is usually produced, so you should reduce your presence to the maximum.
Phase 3: When you are in an outer cage, the frilly chicken already knows how to eat on its own, so it will be enough to spread the food on the ground. The granites of pebbles or sand that mix with the food are beneficial for the digestive process of the animal. It is also convenient to mix natural food with prepared food: insects (for insectivores), seeds (for granivores), fruits (for both). Some rotten fruits placed in a corner of the cage will attract hundreds of mosquitoes and other insects that while harmless to man are an exquisite delicacy for insectivorous birds. And a good opportunity to learn to hunt!
It will be enough for broiler chickens to spread food on the floor of the cage once a day. In case they don't eat anything, you'll have to force them to eat.
What risks will our chick face once released?
- Attacks by domestic cats What can you do? Make it difficult for the cat: a collar with a rattle will betray a few seconds before the attack.
- Hunting by shooting, use of Japanese networks, league, etc. What can you do? These traps are prohibited, if on a walk in the countryside you find them notify a guardian of the SEPRONA or forest agent.
- Collisions against windows, vehicles, bright buildings. What can you do? Put a sticker with the silhouette of a bird of prey on your window. This will prevent the bird from rushing against the glass. The curtains also make the windows "visible". Tell your parents not to drive too fast, especially on county roads.
- Pesticide use Thousands of birds die intoxicated by those chemicals spilled in the field. What can you do? Consume biological products. Although they are more expensive, they are very healthy for both you and the environment.
- Commerce. Many exotic and native animals suffer and die because of trade. What can you do? Do not buy exotic birds or native fauna. They are very beautiful flying free. However, if you do make sure they have been bred in captivity.
- Loss and degradation of habitat.
in our wildlife hospital, to be treated and cared for
with the criteria that we have exposed.
If you want to be one of our volunteers, get in touch with us.
By becoming a member you also help these chickens survive
Drawings: Rubén Arrabal, Fernando Ferreiro
If we are going to use a brooder to raise the chicks, before starting the process, we must ensure that the operation of the appliance is correct and that the temperature and heat lamp are perfectly regulated. In addition, the brooder must be completely clean and disinfected and the troughs and feeders clean and perfectly prepared for the arrival of the chicks. If, on the other hand, the chicks are going to be raised in the nursery, the cabin must be prepared and fully conditioned well in advance so that the chicks can begin their development in a suitable environment. For this, the nursery must be cleaned and disinfected with a product that ensures an effective germinicidal action and the instruments that will be used for chick rearing must be completely clean. Before your arrival, the chicks bed must be conditioned and, in addition, we must count the necessary artificial light and heat the room prior to the arrival of the chicks so that they find an environment at the right temperature. To finalize the preparations and make the chick space as comfortable as possible, we must fill the feeders and drinkers and install them in their relevant location.
Temperature and lighting
The ideal temperature for the rearing of newborn chicks is 37 degrees. This graduation can be increased by one or two degrees at most, especially in the first days of life of the chicks, but should never be less than 37º. The chicks have the ability to self-regulate the optimum temperature they require for their development, so they themselves will move away or approach the heat source according to their needs.
The temperature to which the chicks are exposed should be gradually reduced until they reach 30º at the end of the first week of life of the offspring and until 25º at the moment when the chicks exceed the first month of age. Once the chicks have reached 30 days of life, the temperature should go
gradually decreasing during the second month of life, at which point the chicks will be raised at room temperature, provided it is not excessively low.
The temperature increase in the nursery is obtained with special infrared lamps. In the market you can find many lamps of various shapes and presentations, although the most common have a conical shape. The most recommended lamps for artificial chick rearing include infrared bulbs in reddish or bluish tones ranging between 150 and 250 watts, for voltages between 125 and 220. Light bulbs manufactured in these tones are more likely to allow passage of caloric radiation and hinder the passage of light radiation. Therefore, the use of this type of special lamps avoids, as far as possible, possible disorders that the excess of light could cause in the development of the chicks.
Maintaining the nursery at an ideal temperature is a fundamental factor in achieving successful chick rearing. At a correct temperature, the chicks will spread evenly through the hatchery and there will be no problem in their development. If there is excess temperature, the chicks will move away from the lamp location area, causing an overpopulation in the areas furthest from the heat source. However, if the temperature is too low, the reverse situation will occur, since the chicks will pile up in the area near the heat source.
If, on the contrary, the quantity of chicks that we want to raise is minimal and we use an artificial breeder, the device has all the necessary mechanisms to regulate the temperature that the chicks require at each stage of their development.
Lighting is another parameter that we should not neglect in artificial chick breeding. In their first days of life, they require permanent artificial lighting with high levels of intensity that, in addition to providing heat to the chicks, will help to start their development.
Good ventilation is essential, since the chicks are raised in a breeder or nursery, relatively small spaces in proportion to the amount of chicks that cohabit in the breeding area. The concentration of a significant number of chicks causes excess levels of carbon dioxide and water vapor. It is essential to eliminate this disproportion to avoid high percentages of humidity in the environment and overloaded air, aspects that can adversely affect the health of the chicks.
Inside the chicks area we must maintain an optimal environment by providing the oxygen necessary for the development of the chicks, therefore, ventilation in the nursery is an indispensable condition to successfully conclude the artificial chick breeding.
The ventilation of the chick rearing room should be continuous and intense, but as long as air currents are avoided. To avoid possible air currents, it is advisable to install an improvised barrier or wall in a circle, approximately one meter high, composed of a sheet of wood, cardboard or a similar material. The barrier must be placed around the area occupied by the chicks and the irradiation zone of the infrared lamp, in order to protect the chicks, especially in the first stages of their life, in case of drafts . The installation of this kind of wall, in addition, keeps the chicks close to the heat source, preventing the infrared lamp from being piled up in the spaces of the nursery.
The most appropriate humidity levels in which we must maintain the chick rearing area should not exceed 60%. This parameter can be controlled by maintaining good ventilation and ensuring the circulation of fresh air. In addition, to maintain good humidity conditions we must provide the chicks with a suitable bed that is kept dry and clean.
The accommodation of the chicks is another parameter of artificial breeding that must be taken into account before starting the process. The nursery must offer the best conditions for the development of the chicks. The purpose of the nursery is to protect the chicks from rain, cold and sudden temperature changes. Before choosing the nursery we must consider the amount of chicks to be raised to have a sufficiently wide space and that there is no over-occupation of chicks. In addition, the breeding room must be designed so that its cleaning and disinfection is easy, it must allow the necessary temperature regulation at all times and must provide a clean, well ventilated and free of drafts environment.
The chicks must have a bed or bed on which they can rest comfortably. The beds can be built with a variety of materials, although the most common are wood chips and sawdust and straw. The humidity of the beds should be controlled and should range between 20% and 25%. When the humidity levels are lower, dust forms, while when they are higher, the bed becomes moist and cakes.
In the case that we are going to raise a small amount of chicks and opt for the use of an artificial breeder, we will simply have to take into account the exact number of chicks that we are going to raise to choose any breeder from those available in the market that offer enough capacity to house all the chicks and include the feeder and drinker, the special heat lamp and an analog thermometer.
Adequate feeding is essential for the chicks to develop an ideal body constitution in terms of bone, fat and muscle levels. However, the food we must supply to the chicks is very simple. Its diet consists of granulated compound feed of initiation for breeding that we can easily find in the market in any specialized establishment. It is not advisable to supply chicks or grains or grass until they reach the first month of age. The chicks must have clean, quality drinking water, as well as food, freely available, from the first day of their life.
Cleaning and hygiene
Cleaning and hygiene are two fundamental factors that we should not neglect even a single day in the chick development process. Therefore, we must keep the nursery and the instruments used totally clean and disinfected. In addition, we must protect the area from insect chicks, rodents, etc. and limit human trafficking. In the case of using an artificial brooder for the development of our chicks, cleaning and hygiene are two aspects that must be strictly complied with. The brooder must be permanently clean and disinfected and the broiler trays where the chicks deposit their feces should be cleaned frequently.
Regardless of whether a breeder is used or the chicks are housed in a nursery, it should be borne in mind that the water in the drinking fountains is easily soiled with food debris and sometimes with contaminants. To prevent germs from developing in drinking troughs and feeders, they must be cleaned at least once a day, especially during the first two life stages of the chicks. Es recomendable llenar los comederos hasta la mitad para evitar desperdicios de comida y limpiarlos periódicamente para, además de evitar el desarrollo de gérmenes, evitar la acumulación de restos de alimento viejo o mohoso.
Control de enfermedades
El brote de algún tipo de enfermedad en el seno de un área en el que convive una significativa colección de pollitos es muy probable. La presencia de alguna patología grave se manifiesta por el número de bajas y por el número de pollitos enfermos registrados. El óptimo cuidado de los pollitos, su correcto manejo y la bioseguridad componen la receta ideal para prevenir muchas enfermedades. La limpieza diaria de los bebederos y comederos, la desinfección periódica del área de cría y el mantenimiento de la cama de los pollitos seca y limpia son la mejor estrategia para evitar posibles enfermedades.
Para que todos los pollitos crezcan sanos y vigorosos y mantengan una salud de hierro es fundamental mantener unos buenos niveles de ventilación. Es necesario asegurar la circulación de aire fresco y mantener un ambiente sin aire sobrecargado para impedir que se debilite el desarrollo de los pollitos.
Cuando los pollitos que están gravemente enfermos o han causado baja no se retiran inmediatamente pueden infectar al resto. Por esta razón, los pollitos deben ser examinados periódicamente para comprobar si hay alguno enfermo o magullado, si la cama está en buenas condiciones, si el aire y la temperatura se mantienen en sus niveles óptimos o si existen otros problemas que puedan perturbar el correcto desarrollo de los pollitos. Además, estas labores de prevención se pueden complementar con la vacunación y el uso de antibióticos (cuando ocurran casos extremos y siempre que su uso sea responsable y no discriminado).
El canibalismo es un contratiempo que puede afectar negativamente en el desarrollo de las crías. Los pollitos empiezan a picar prácticamente desde el momento en que eclosionan del cascarón huevo y esta costumbre no la abandonan durante el resto de su vida. Las causas del canibalismo pueden ser diversas como por ejemplo el amontonamiento de pollitos y, en consecuencia, la falta de espacio para comer, beber y descansar, deficiencias en la alimentación, exceso de calor, exceso de luz, estrés y la presencia de sangre visible en algún pollito que ha resultado lastimado. El canibalismo es una adversidad difícil de controlar una vez que ha comenzado. Por ello, a fin de evitarla, es muy recomendable controlar los principales factores causantes del canibalismo. En casos extremos, si fuese necesario se puede cortar el pico de algunos pollitos. Si necesitáramos recurrir al despique en alguna situación, debemos asegurarnos que el corte cauterice para evitar que el pico sangre o pueda infectarse.
El proceso de cría de pollitos
Una vez que los pollitos comienzan a picar el cascarón del huevo y eclosionan, debemos mantenerlos durante 24 horas en la nacedora, antes de introducirlos en la criadora. La lámpara especial de infrarrojos dotará a los pollitos del calor necesario para iniciar su desarrollo. En la primera fase del proceso, de aproximadamente un mes de duración, es cuando más atención debemos prestar a los pollitos. La alimentación en esta primera etapa debe estar compuesta por pienso granulado para cría y los pollitos deben contar agua potable y de calidad abundante. Transcurrida esta fase inicial, podemos trasladar a los pollitos a una jaula de cría sobre la que una lámpara especial suministrase la luz y el calor necesario para completar esta segunda fase que duraría en torno a un mes y medio y sería el periodo previo al proceso de recría de pollitos.
Recría de pollitos
La recría de pollitos es la última fase del proceso de cría artificial de pollitos, el período comprendido entre los dos meses y medio y tres meses de vida de los pollitos y el comienzo de la puesta de huevos. La recría es una etapa en la que los pollitos no exigen unos cuidados tan minuciosos como en las primeras fases de la cría. Sin embargo, la atención prestada a nuestros pollitos no debe ser descuidada porque la recría es la etapa previa al periodo de puesta, proceso fundamental para el futuro de una gallina ponedora. Por tanto, durante el proceso de recría debemos seguir una serie de pautas. En primer lugar, el espacio de recría de los pollitos, debe cumplir todos los requisitos de higiene y limpieza. Además, debe incluir una zona cubierta donde los pollitos estén completamente protegidos de las inclemencias meteorológicas. Es recomendable equipar el cuarto de recría con una especie de posaderos para proteger a los pollitos de la humedad del suelo y también podemos equipar la instalación con un revolcadero, para que los animales puedan revolcarse y esta forma mantener limpio su plumaje.
Por último, el lugar de recría debe contar con una zona de patio al aire libre donde los pollitos puedan campar a sus anchas.
Artículo publicado en la revista Aviocio nº 3